The Landrover is driving over a bumpy sand track, shaking us quite a bit. The sun is glaring but not hot. The road winds through the hilly landscape, with sand and occasional dry bushes on both sides. We have been on the road for 30 minutes, and there is no end of the moon-like landscape to be seen. Suddenly, a wooden sign appears with a painted inscription: "Goanikontes Oasis: Cold beer in 2km."
***
When I wake up, I cannot feel the gentle swaying beneath me anymore. The hum of the engine is absent, and there’s no sound of waves lapping against the hull. We’ve already docked in Walvis Bay, Namibia.
I make my way up to Deck 14 to survey the surroundings. The temperature hovers around 14°C, with strong winds and an overcast sky. Below, the landscape stretches out with flat storage buildings, towering silos, chimneys, cranes reaching skyward, and a busy shipyard in the distance. Walvis Bay aspires to become the main cargo hub for southwestern Africa, aiming to eventually surpass Cape Town as the region's largest port. But this transformation will take time. Beyond the port, the landscape reveals flat, gray buildings scattered amidst a few sparse trees, all set against a dramatic backdrop of golden sand dunes that stretch endlessly. The desert begins right where the city ends. Back when Namibia was a German colony, they called it “the Emperor’s sandbox.”
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| Typical gray morning in Walvis Bay |
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| Buses, vans and land rovers waiting for business |
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| Dunes as natural city limits |
I enjoy my usual breakfast of fresh fruit and coffee while outlining plans for the day. The agenda involves joining fellow passengers who had arranged a self-organized tour with a German couple living in Swakopmund. A faint reluctance stirs within me—a hesitation to leave the smooth, sheltered rhythm of life on the ship. Stepping off and immersing myself in “normal” outside life feels odd, almost like stepping into uncertainty.
Before venturing out, we must pass through immigration on Deck 4, where nearly 2,000 passengers queue to present their passports and forms for processing. The procedure moves efficiently: four Namibian officers examine the documents, stamping passports with practiced precision, each officer wielding two stamps in a rhythmic flurry. Finally, we’re cleared to disembark.
Outside, the bustling port is alive with activity. A throng of tour buses, minivans, and Land Rovers wait to ferry their pre-booked guests or persuade last-minute travelers into overpriced excursions.
Our group has grown to ten, but there’s no sign of the promised Land Rovers from the "Magic Vibes" tour company. As the first buses begin to pull away, carrying their loads of eager passengers, a ripple of nervousness spreads through our group. Then, relief: the first “Magic Vibe” Land Rover appears, soon followed by a second. A blond man in his late 50s steps out, accompanied by his local driver. They introduce themselves as Volker and Günther.
After a brief introduction, the group divides between the two vehicles, and we’re off—ready to explore the wonders awaiting us in Namibia.
After leaving the port, we drive along a road that hugs the lagoon on our right, while on the left stretches an endless chain of summer houses, lodges, and villas. Most of these homes appear unoccupied—likely vacation properties or seasonal rentals, bustling only during the peak holiday season. Walvis Bay and Swakopmund are renowned as preferred vacation destinations, attracting visitors with their unique charm. The cold Atlantic current ensures a cool, humid climate, often enveloping the area in morning mist, a refreshing reprieve from the arid desert heat beyond the towering sand dunes behind the residential area.
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| Villas with sea view for 120,000 EUR |
The lagoon itself is a calm, sheltered stretch of seawater, making it an ideal habitat for flamingos, which thrive in its tranquil environment. Beyond its natural beauty, the lagoon serves another purpose: salt production. The traditional method of evaporating seawater under the hot sun leaves behind crystalline salt, which is collected and processed.
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| Flamingoes and cranes |
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| Sea Salt production |
After snapping the obligatory photos, we head westward into the desert. A 30-minute drive along the highway brings us to a rugged sand road. The landscape becomes starkly monotonous, a vast expanse of yellowish-gray sand punctuated by dry, lifeless bushes that have long since lost their greenery. The desert is eerily silent—no birds, no animals, no sign of life. Inevitably, most of us succumb to the lull of the scenery and drift off to sleep, only to be jolted awake by unexpected bumps along the way.
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| Landrovers waiting to drive into the desert |
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| Flamingoes wherever you go |
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| Here starts the sandox |
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| Adventurers on their way |
Another 45 minutes of bumpy travel brings us to a junction. The left road leads to Swakopmund, while the right takes us to an oasis—and, as our guide enthusiastically promises, fresh beer. We turn right, and after 2 kilometers, the atmosphere transforms: the party begins: Goanikontes Oasis.
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| Dog friendly oasis hotel |
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| In the desert every drop has a value |
The oasis is a genuine marvel. An underground water reservoir provides enough moisture to sustain lush trees and greenery, creating a sprawling garden in the middle of the desert. Enterprising locals have developed the area into a vibrant complex featuring a restaurant, hotel, small zoo, and a playground for children—a miniature Disneyland of sorts. We seize the opportunity to indulge in ice-cold draft beer, priced at an astonishingly low 1.88 EUR, a fraction of what it would cost back home in Herrsching (or about 9 MYR). Sitting in the heart of the desert, we savor a relaxing lunch break, complete with the unexpected luxury of free Wi-Fi.
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| This is not Cuba!! |
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| Happy adventurer waiting for the free wifi |
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| Locals having an after lunch break |
After finishing our drinks, we set off for Swakopmund. Our guide, eager to demonstrate the prowess of his Land Rover, suggests taking a shortcut through the desert. Foolish yet adventurous as tourists often are, we agree. The ride turns into a thrilling roller-coaster experience as we navigate the undulating dunes. To our surprise and relief, the Land Rover handles the terrain with ease, and within 30 minutes, we find ourselves arriving in Swakopmund, exhilarated and ready for the next chapter of our journey.
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| Early settlements with lack of infrastructure |
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| They call it "moon scape" |
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| Even on the moon is a strong wind |
***
To be continued ...
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