Day 43: Driving to Cameron Highlands

We left Taiping just before 11 a.m., heading for "The Smokehouse Hotel" in Cameron Highlands. It was a 160-kilometer journey, starting on the motorway and transitioning into 80 kilometers of winding roads through the rainforest. Traveling through this lush green wilderness is always awe-inspiring; the power of nature is palpable. 

In a German forest, towering trees dominate, with a scattering of ferns and smaller plants below. Here, in the Malaysian rainforest, trees also reign supreme in size, but every gap is filled with dense layers of ferns, shrubs, and creeping vines. It feels as if an invisible force is pressing leaves and branches into every available space between the trunks. It’s only a matter of time before the two-lane road is overtaken by nature, disappearing under the relentless growth. 

Tea plantation on Cameron Highlands Source: Wikipedia

But before nature reclaims this path, we need to ascend to an elevation of 1,600 meters. Since we turned onto the trunk road leading to Cameron Highlands, we’ve seen hardly any houses or villages. Occasionally, a small hut appears, with local farmers selling fresh fruit to passing cars. After 60 kilometers, a sign welcomes us: "Welcome to Cameron Highlands." Here, the rainforest ends abruptly, replaced by an endless sea of greenhouses, some of which creep up impossibly steep hillsides.

We’ve arrived in Malaysia’s fruit and vegetable garden. I notice the car's air conditioning isn’t running and instinctively think there’s a technical issue—driving at the equator without aircon is no joke! But then I realize the outside temperature has dropped below 24°C, making it unnecessary. The cool air is a refreshing change. 

Endless sea of greenhouses. Source: Wikipedia

As we continue, we pass "self-plucking" strawberry farms, which wouldn’t be remarkable in Germany but are a major attraction here. Hundreds of cars line up at these farms, and with the crowds come roadside vendors offering fruits, vegetables, toys, and all kinds of colorful plastic trinkets. 

The Cameron Highlands have been a retreat since the late 1920s, originally developed by the British as plantations for vegetables, fruits, and tea, as well as a hill station for English officers seeking respite from the lowland heat. We’re not the only ones trying to escape the tropical heat during the holidays—traffic is heavy, and the last 10 kilometers to our hotel take almost an hour. But finally, we arrive at "The Smokehouse Hotel."

The Smokehouse Hotel

Built in 1937, during the height of the British Empire, The Smokehouse is styled as a traditional English cottage. It was originally designed to cater to British officers and is located next to a golf course. Stepping into the hotel garden feels like stepping back a century in time. The rooms don’t have numbers but names. Ours is called "Windermere" and features an open fireplace for chilly nights. 

Feeling like a British Officer

British culture in the jungle: phones and golf course

85% humidity and never below 10°

Home of the Hobbits

Dinner served at 6:30pm

British cottage style 

At tea time, we enjoy Cameronian black tea served with scones, clotted cream and homemade strawberry jam in the charming garden. It’s a perfect way to experience the timeless ambiance of the highlands.

Cameron Highlands Information  

The Cameron Highlands (not to be mixed up with Cameroon) were discovered in 1885 by British surveyor William Cameron during a mapping expedition. He described the area as a "fine plateau" with a cool climate, making it ideal for agriculture. In 1925, the British Resident of Perak proposed developing the highlands as a hill station—a retreat from the tropical heat and a hub for cultivating tea, vegetables, and temperate crops.  

In 1930, the establishment of the Boh Tea Plantation marked the start of tea production in the region. Over time, infrastructure like roads, schools, and hospitals attracted settlers, including Chinese, Indian, and indigenous Orang Asli communities.  Today's population is 45,000 (Chinese: 39%, Malay: 39%, Indian: 12%).

After Malaya's independence in 1957, Cameron Highlands grew in prominence as a tourist destination and agricultural hub, with the development of resorts, strawberry farms, and flower nurseries. However, rapid development and deforestation have raised environmental concerns in recent decades.

Climate and Temperatures  

The weather in Cameron Highlands is consistently cool, with an average daily high of 23°C and a low of 15°C. Humidity remains above 85%, giving the highlands their lush, green appearance year-round.